Takahashi Lambda's style code.
Vol.2 Trench coat

高橋ラムダのスタイルコード。<br>Vol.2 トレンチコート 高橋ラムダのスタイルコード。<br>Vol.2 トレンチコート

Photo: Haruto Inomata

Edit: Soma Takeda

COLUMNFASHION

Style is not just about wearing clothes stylishly. It is something that can only be shaped by knowing the history and culture of the clothing itself, as well as the atmosphere of the times that it is associated with, and assimilating it in one's own way. In this series, we will unravel the background of style using stylist Takahashi Lambda's personal belongings and how he wears them as clues. The theme of the second installment is the trench coat.

The punk spirit that breaks with tradition.

Commune H
Commune H

What made you start thinking about trench coats?

lambda
lambda

I think it all started when I was struck by Malcolm McLaren's look in a 1983 issue of THE FACE (search "THE FACE Malcolm McLaren" if you're interested). He was wearing the buffalo coat from "The World's End," yellow Timberland boots, and two mountain hats stacked on top of each other. After seeing that, I think I became interested in trench coats.

Commune H
Commune H

How did you make the jump from the buffalo coat to the trench coat?

lambda
lambda

There are things like short trench coats with the hems cut off, and so-called "modified trench coats." To me, the buffalo coat is an extension of that. From the shape of the collar to the deep double-breasted front. However, although I desperately wanted to imitate Malcolm McLaren's style, I didn't dare buy a buffalo coat in my early twenties. I assumed it would be extremely expensive. And anyway, it was just too unrealistic to try to find one from the time of "The World's End."

Commune H
Commune H

Why did Malcolm McLaren's style resonate so much with you at the time?

lambda
lambda

Of course, I was drawn to the styling itself, but I was also drawn to the punk mentality. Malcolm McLaren is a punk, but he doesn't dress like a rider's jacket with the cuffs rolled up and Martins. Punk isn't just about looking the part, it's about breaking down traditional things. Once I realized that, I felt like my freedom in fashion expanded a lot.

Commune H
Commune H

In the first installment of this series, you said, "Without betrayal, it becomes cosplay."

lambda
lambda

I think he must have had quite a bit of influence on me. Before that, I thought that if you were a punk fan, you had to dress like a punk, but then I was like, "Wow, Malcolm McLaren is wearing American shoes?" He even changed the shoelaces on his Timberland shoes to brown. I immediately bought some brown leather laces at Toni Hands and customized them in the same way.

Article image This trench coat is from Maison Margiela's "Replica" line. Lambda speculates that the buttons, which resemble beer bottle caps, were inspired by Japanese-made buttons. "I found similar buttons in the bargain section of Yuzawaya, a popular fashion store. I think they bought them in Japan, brought them back to their home country, and made them to a higher standard. That's also punk."

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