Takahashi Lambda's style code.
Vol.1 Stadium Jumper
Takahashi Lambda's style code.
Style is not just about wearing clothes stylishly. It is something that can only be shaped by knowing the history and culture of the clothing itself, as well as the atmosphere of the times that it is associated with, and assimilating it in one's own way. In this series, we will unravel the background of this style using the personal belongings and styling of stylist Takahashi Lambda as clues. The first theme is the stadium jacket.
A neutral style that combines American and European influences.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
The first theme is stadium jackets (hereafter referred to as sta-jan). Is this what you're feeling right now, Lambda?
lambda
lambda
That's right. Armani passed away recently, but I happened to like and often wear the clothes he created, such as Emporio Armani and Armani Jeans. When I dug into the pieces of that era, I found that Neutra's style, which is a mix of European and American influences, was cool, as it was different from Ralph Lauren, a kind of American casual style like that of an Italian New Yorker.
On a completely different note, when I look at the way people like MC Hammer dress, they tuck their shirts into their high waists and throw on a fat bomber jacket. I particularly like the round silhouette of bombers, and I ended up with the unfashionable 90s varsity jacket. I wanted to use that kind of varsity jacket to express the Neutral style that I'm interested in at the moment.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
Among varsity jackets, the 90s silhouette fits the current mood.
lambda
lambda
While recent varsity jackets have been resized to make them easier to wear, those from the 90s were wider around the arms and body, with a rounded overall shape. I've always loved the round silhouettes of brands like Stüssy and Cross Colors. Also, the ribbing on varsity jackets tends to feel quite tight, but the ones from this era are just the right amount of loose and comfortable to wear.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
The 40 Acres varsity jacket we're introducing this time is from the 90s.
lambda
lambda
Yes, this is from the 90s. I collect Spike Lee merchandise, including t-shirts, whenever I find them. I think I was 18 when I saw HF or Murajun wearing a cap from a Spike Lee movie in "LAST ORGY" (Editor's note: a serial in the magazine Takarajima by Fujiwara Hiroshi and Takagi Kan). That's when I first learned about 40 Acres. They bought their products through parallel imports, so of course I couldn't get my hands on it at the time. I would look through old documents and wonder, "What was that thing from back then?" and I got hold of this varsity jacket a few years ago.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
Why were you drawn to Spike Lee material?
lambda
lambda
He was surrounded by Michael Jordan and the Beastie Boys, and had an intellectual vibe even on the street. I really admired that, and the culture he spread, be it movies, fashion, or music, was easy to get into. It wasn't too gangster. Also, there was a graphic on the back of his varsity jacket that said "Spike Lee JOINT," and I was really intrigued by the word "joint."
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
It's a sort of tag meaning "a Spike Lee production." The same phrase appears on the poster for the film "DO THE RIGHT THINGS."
lambda
lambda
The choice of words is clever, and the graphics are just cool. 40 Acres items in particular have a hip-hop feel, but the graphics are pop and cute. 40 Acres itself is Spike Lee's film production company, and it's like a merchandise line that comes from there, so I think it's cool that it's not an apparel brand.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
We asked you to create your own style using this stadium jacket, but what do you think are the key points?
lambda
lambda
Stadium jackets have a lot of punch, so I wanted to coordinate them in one tone. Looking at the upcoming 26SS collection, I feel like earth tones and beige-brown gradations will be more popular. That's why I chose a linen shirt and corduroy pants in beige tones, topped off with the black stadium jacket.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
You mentioned earlier that you're in the mood for all black.
lambda
lambda
If I use dark brown, it looks too country, but if I use black, it looks like a Celine wallet (laughs). I think it gives a modern and elegant impression.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
The shirt underneath is from Armani Jeans, which I mentioned at the beginning of the story.
lambda
lambda
Yes. It's like coordinating Armani's safari-look items with a jacket that has an African feel. Also, this stadium jacket is all melton, so it's not too formal and can be worn like a cardigan. I think this mix is my own version of neutral.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
It's certainly not what you would call American casual.
lambda
lambda
He doesn't wear it with denim or chinos. Plus, the colours of this varsity jacket were tricky... because it's red and green, which is Christmas. But by adding an Italian essence to it, I've been able to elevate it and wear it in my own way. Of course, you have to add a different context or a twist or it becomes cosplay, especially with varsity jackets.
Wear the passion of people with African roots.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
The next piece is from Wales Bonner, a current brand rather than the 90s.
lambda
lambda
It's currently in production, but I brought it here because of its 90s-style rounded silhouette. The sleeves are roomy enough to resemble puff sleeves on a blouse, which is what you'd expect from a female designer. It's a varsity jacket that's not just street style, but also has a sense of elegance.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
This outfit was self-styled by Onocchi, an acquaintance of Lambda. What do you think of this outfit?
lambda
lambda
The key point is, above all, the contrast between skinny jeans and fat stadium jackets. There are actually skaters who dress like this, like the ones skating at the Pompidou Centre in Paris. They've been wearing those Misfits sweatshirts since they were in middle and high school (laughs). They have strict rules about the width and length of their pants, and their own style is already established. It's a European style that's different from mine, and it influenced me so much that I wanted to wear skinny jeans again.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
By the way, what is European about this styling?
lambda
lambda
It's the combination of a navy varsity jacket with black. This color combination isn't very common in America, but it's common in Europe. I think it's because of the difference in the shade of navy. When you think of navy in America, you think of eggplant blue, but in Europe it's iron blue. It's a cold, inorganic color, close to black. Iron blue blends naturally with black.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
It's true that navy and black seem to go together poorly.
lambda
lambda
Another thing that I thought was impressive was the layering of the black underneath. The faded color of the black t-shirt underneath the tattered black hoodie creates a beautiful gradation. There are blacks in secondhand clothes that fade to green, and blacks that fade to red. Onocchi has kept both colors close to green, which is really well thought out. Wow, this is something you really need to be an expert at.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
So you were able to see even the smallest details.
lambda
lambda
Come to think of it, I was wearing all beige, but Onocchi was wearing all black, so we were complete opposites. But in the sense of finishing off with black, it's the same look. I wore beige with black, and I think he probably finished off the brown sleeves with black.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
It's an interesting coincidence. Speaking of which, Spike Lee and Greta Wales Bonner both have African roots.
lambda
lambda
It wasn't something I had in mind at all, but now that you mention it, it's true. I think it was just a natural desire to wear something that embodies the passion of people who have a base in Africa. As they're called varsity jackets over there, stadium jackets are an item that evokes white culture, but I think it has the soul to interpret it in a unique way.
Houyhnhnm
Houyhnhnm
Finally, if we're looking for a 90s varsity jacket right now, do you have any recommendations?
lambda
lambda
I often search based on the body. I recommend Golden Bear and Roots from the 80s and 90s, as their silhouettes aren't too rigid. Stüssy and other brands are too expensive, but I think you can buy these at reasonable prices on Mercari or Yahoo! Auctions.
Takahashi Lambda
stylist
Born in Tokyo in 1977. After working as a salesperson at Beams, he gained experience in editing and buying vintage clothing, and studied under stylist Shirayama Haruhisa. He went independent in 2008 and works on styling for magazines, advertisements, and celebrities.
Instagram: @tkhslmd
