The Corona Utility Designer
Born in Kumamoto Prefecture in 1963, he moved to the US in 1986 and built a career as a vintage importer in New York. In the early 1990s, he worked with Takeshi Obuchi and participated in POST O'ALLS, which was launched in 1993. After working with the brand for many years, he returned to Japan in 2001 and launched his own brand, THE CORONA UTILITY, in 2006, developing collections inspired by hunting, work and military garments from the past that are not part of fashion.
Instagram: @thecoronautility
Speaking of hunting, doesn't it evoke a strong sense of the establishment atmosphere that is unique to the East Coast, such as New England, the starting point of American development by immigrants from Britain?
I do think that the East Coast is a particularly popular area. However, it is different from the hobby of the privileged class in Europe, and I think that in America it was positioned as a more competitive sport. I don't hunt myself, and I was based in New York at the time, so I don't know much about other areas, but at least on the East Coast, I think that it is a field sport that is still rooted in culture, not just among the upper class.
When did you become interested in the hunting category?
This was some time after I moved to the United States, so I think it was sometime in the late 1980s or early 1990s.
Was there any particular trigger?
As a buyer of secondhand clothes, I visit local shops and warehouses almost every day, and while the prices of denim and military items, which are the main products, rise every year, hunting items, even if they are quite old, do not fetch a high price. Looking more closely, I found a unique worldview, and I did not feel any compromise in the materials or details. In the first place, they are not intended as fashion items, but are a kind of "tools" for hunting, so they are made very luxuriously. I feel like I have been collecting them little by little, focusing on slightly unusual items and interesting designs.
What is the "unique worldview" that you mentioned earlier?
Basically, it's a sport where you go through the bush regardless of the weather, and you rub against vegetation and get wet from rain and dew. I think the fact that it's specialized in materials and details that take those conditions into account makes it very different from other workwear and military wear. The sleeves are forward-swept to make it easier to hold a rifle, there are various pockets of different sizes, including a game pocket for captured prey, and heavy materials such as nylon blends are used to keep out the rain even if they are heavy. I think the appeal of this category lies in the parts that are not designed to be worn on a daily basis. After the war, that uniqueness was gradually simplified.
Will the items you will be showing us this time mainly be from before the war?
I like the classic style, so I personally collect items up to the 50s. The early ones from the late 1800s still retained the appearance of European tailoring, but from the 1910s to the 1920s they evolved with a more American, rational interpretation, and various designs were released and proposed by many brands up until the 50s. Like other workwear such as coveralls and military wear, in the 60s they shifted to designs suitable for mass production, and I think the individuality of each was lost.
Is it too difficult for daily use?
I won't say there's no possibility, but it's heavy and the construction is rugged, so I don't think there's anyone who could pull it off (laughs). The only person I think looks good in it is (Oobuchi) Takeshi. In the past, I often wore a hunting jacket over a coverall. However, even if it's difficult to wear it daily, I think the best part of this category is that you can feel the possibility of it. For example, the sleeves that flare out in front, or the extreme A-line. I think there are quite a few elements that can be used for daily wear with a modern sensibility.
But, with such intricate designs and materials incorporated, it must have been quite priced even back then, right?
I think that was probably the case. Furthermore, if you were to make the exact same thing from scratch today, it would cost at least 100,000 yen no matter how much you cut out the unnecessary things. In that sense, I think it can be said to be a very good deal category among vintage used clothes. The secondhand market price hasn't changed much since I started collecting about 40 years ago, and there are still many opportunities to find interesting things at low prices. Although there are some exceptions such as Filson, it can be said to be an unpopular category in some ways, both in the past and now. However, there are many things that people who make clothes like me can learn from it, and it can be said to be more "used clothes that are like used clothes" without being bound by resale value or asset value.
Hunting is a field sport that originated in the UK in the 19th century, and was also a hobby for the privileged classes. Initially, tailored styles such as Norfolk jackets and tweed jackets were mainstream, but as they were influenced by the rationality unique to America, they evolved into "wearable equipment" specialized for demand and use, just like coveralls and military garments. We will take a look at five models carefully selected by Nishi from the archives of the early days of US hunting jackets, from the 1910s to the 1950s.
This is an original from RHMacy & Co., the parent company of the huge American department store chain Macy's, headquartered in New York. The rod holder on the left chest suggests it can also be used for fishing. "While following the basic style of an extreme A-line and long sleeves, it is made quite short to be worn with waders underneath, and is made from ultra-high density cotton oxford fabric."
It is a major brand in its category, founded in 1904 and with sub-labels such as Kempit and Utica. "While the brown side is quite dirty, the red side shows little signs of use, so I think it was used to improve visibility, like the lining of an MA-1, to prevent accidental shooting in multiplayer games. I like the strangeness of the red hunting jacket more than anything."
This 40s jacket is also made by Duxback. The brand is known for its many double-name and OEM products with other brands and shops, including Abercrombie & Fitch. "There are similar pleats on both the front and back, and there is also a loop on the back, so I think this model is probably intended for a belted style. I think it's a surprisingly rare specification in this category."
The 50s jacket, which he acquired as deadstock around 30 years ago, has no tags or flashers, so the details are unknown, but it has a distinctive A-line that is reminiscent of a tailored jacket. "It doesn't have excessive details, and although the material is cotton duck, it is on the lighter side, so I've been wearing this model for a while as an everyday item. Everything from the pockets to the gun patch on the shoulder is understated and easy to wear."
Founded in 1866 in Pennsylvania as a field sports brand, it is a prestigious brand known only to those in the know, having also been listed as a munitions contractor during the war. "I think this brand has a unique impact, as well as a rugged construction that is in keeping with its origins as a munitions contractor. It has an unorthodox charm, with a progressiveness that is definitely different from others, such as rubberized rain cloth and seam tape. Well, anyway, it's unusual (laughs)."
