What is Unfashion? Keiji Kaneko Vol.04 A reflection session called a journey.

アンファッションとは何か。金子恵治 Vol.04 旅という名の反省会。 アンファッションとは何か。金子恵治 Vol.04 旅という名の反省会。

Photo: Keiji Kaneko

Text: Keiji Kaneko

Edit: Yosuke Ishii

COLUMNFASHION

This series began with the theme of unfashion. However, before I could even finish the sentence, I ended up going to PITTI UOMO, the world's largest men's fashion fair. In Florence, I witnessed the overwhelming passion of men dressing up. There, I discovered a gemstone called "style" that cannot be summed up simply as a trend.

I misunderstood the term "unfashionable."

It all started a few months ago. It all began with the contradiction of a man whose theme was "unfashionable" going to the epicenter of fashion. The reason for this trip was originally for work with the Italian bag brand FELISI. As it was work, there was no hesitation in going, but there was some uncertainty about how to behave.

However, as the time to depart approached, all such doubts vanished. In fact, I was looking forward to this festival I had heard so much about more than anyone else.

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Being exposed to the overwhelming enthusiasm of the people there, I found myself thinking again and again: although I want to label myself as "unfashionable," fashion itself is fun and I like it.

It's a waste to just look at clothes; they're best when worn.

And you need a place to wear it.

In today's world, a "carefree" and "relaxed" style is becoming mainstream. Of course, it's important to relax. However, that alone is boring.

Everyday life needs a good amount of excitement and spice.

Some clothes shine because there is a place to dress up. Now that this culture is fading, the "place" of PITTI was a strong spice for me that I hadn't felt in a long time.

What you want and what you need.

It looks like this year will be one in which I will be doing a lot of work overseas. For me, traveling is the most stimulating experience, and at the same time, I see it as the "culmination of my everyday activities."

I had a personal hidden theme for this trip: to wear different clothes every day. To achieve this, I brought two carry-on bags for the first time in my life. This was also the perfect risk hedge against lost baggage.

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In the end, the package arrived safely, but I found myself stopping many times during the preparation process. "I don't have this kind of outfit," "I don't have this kind of shoe," "I don't have this kind of outfit," "I don't have this to put together this outfit," and so on. I stood in front of my closet, racking my brains over how few pieces I had.

It's not that you simply forgot to buy it. It's because you haven't experienced the "situations" in your daily life where you would need it. If you regularly visit a variety of places and have all kinds of experiences, you would naturally have the clothes for those occasions on hand. If you don't have clothes, it means that you've completely missed out on those experiences.

Knowing the appropriate time, place, and occasion, and knowing how to enjoy the moment, are the culture of an adult. Not having enough clothes simply means that you haven't acquired that culture yet.

When faced with the extraordinary experience of traveling, the accumulation of everyday life becomes apparent, and I often feel regretful about my own lack of education and experience.

I used to say, "I don't want anything," but I was lacking what I needed. I realized that what I want and what I need are different things.

"Style" as a rough diamond.

The "photography" there also gave me many realizations. After returning to Japan, people I meet often ask me, "Did you go to PITTI this time for a photo shoot or some other job?"

It wasn't a job like that at all. I just took whatever photos I wanted in my spare time and uploaded them to Instagram. I'm not a photographer, and I have no idea who was famous or well-known. But I just couldn't stop taking pictures.

Why did I want to take the photos so badly? I think I finally found the answer after visiting the location and constantly looking through the viewfinder.

I often hear people deriding the attire at PITTI, saying things like, "That's fashion" or "That's cosplay." It may be flashy and theatrical, for sure. Before I went, I had the same thought. But what I saw through my lens was much more than that superficial.

What was captured there was unmistakable "style."

They are not wearing trendy clothes. They are using their clothes to express their individuality. To sum up the people I photographed, they all had a style that was like a diamond in the rough that would give birth to fashion in the world.

It can't be summed up in words like fashion or cosplay. What I wanted to photograph was the "style" itself, which exuded the way people lived their lives.

It seems I'm more interested in people's style than in the finished fashion show. This was the biggest discovery I made this time.

Towards the final version in June.

March, April, May, and June... This year, I have an overseas business trip coming up almost every month.

I just wanted to take pictures of as many people as possible. I didn't want to miss anyone. To do that, I realized that it wasn't just about preparing my equipment, but also my body. Not having enough arm strength to hold a telephoto lens was no laughing matter.

To go to the fashion industry, you have to start with strength training. But that's also a necessary "preparation" to face stylish men.

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Before my next trip, I want to fill in the missing pieces: clothes, experience (education), and muscles.

I hope that by June I will be fully prepared, so that I can get a perfect score on this test called travel.

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Profile

Keiji Kaneko / Fashion Director

Born in Tokyo in 1973. After working as a buyer at EDIFICE, he went independent and was involved in the launch of L'ECHOPPE. In 2022, he opened BOUTIQUE in Kita-Aoyama, Tokyo. He handles everything from direction to purchasing and sales, and handles collaborative products with designers, vintage items, and original products. In 2024, he released his first fashion brand, FOUNDOUR. He is a fashion director who is involved in a wide range of activities, including overseeing various brands and labels. He is also the representative of Boutique Company. Instagram: @keijikaneko